650 Years of Amberg Fests

In true Bavarian fashion, a city earns its stripes only when they have their own local fests. 650 years ago, elector Ruprecht I (aka "The Red") gave this right to Amberg.

Photo Credit: Amberger Congress Centrum

To give you a sense of how important these rights were, Ruprecht "The Red" had this on Elector to-do list 22 years ahead of starting the University of Heidelberg! And to put it in perspective for other Americans, the people of Amberg were celebrating the summer season with cold beers and music before Columbus even sailed the ocean blue.
So how do Amberg's 40,000+ citizens celebrate such an important anniversary? With a particularly special kick-off to the Amberg fest season, of course!
This weekend, I had the privilege of seeing the opening ceremonies for the 650th Amberg Dult (aka "carnival" or "fair" in English). Though the Dultplatz (fairground) is actually about a mile down the Vils River, the fest started early Friday evening with free beer from the local brewery, Kummert Bräu. If they were handing out free beer in the city center of any American town, there would likely be a full-fledged mob; however, the people of Amberg were sipping on the special 650-year-anniversary brew as if it were any other day. Needless to say, I was enthused.

Freibier (Free beer is easy to translate!)

After the music stopped, 60 people, eight kegs, two tubas, and a basket full of pretzels loaded on two long boats for the trip down the river. The music played as people sipped on freshly tapped beer. They unloaded at the Dultplatz and set up for the evening tapping of the first Dult keg. After several hours, the whole city enjoyed a 15-minute fireworks show signaling the start of Dult week.
If you are around Amberg, the Kummert Bräu free beer cart has been spotted since: they were playing music and handing out fresh, cold beer at 10:00 am in the marktplatz the next morning. I recommend keeping an eye out for it! More importantly, the Amberg Dult runs through June 15th at the Dultplatz on Bruno-Hofer-Straße.

For those of you who are not able to make it to the Dult fest, this is just the first of three fests that were granted to the city of Amberg 650 years ago. There is still plenty of time to catch the Mariahilfbergfest from June 28 through July 6, the Altstadtfest July 19 & 20, or the fall Dult September 26 - October 5. 

Mykonos Spotlight: Petros the Pelican

If you ask people what to do on Mykonos, you will probably receive the same answer repeatedly: "just get lost!" But what do you do when you are not a wanderer by nature? Set a moving target: find Petros. 

Petros the Pelican has been the official mascot of Mykonos since 1954. After a storm, a lone, wounded pelican made his way to the island. After the locals nursed him back to health, they named him Petros and adopted him as their mascot.

I bet you didn't know that pelicans live 60 years! That is because they do not. Sadly, Petros was eventually faced with his mortality and passed away in the 80s. The people of Mykonos had taken to him so well and were so upset with his death that they decided to continue his legacy. Of course, no one pelican was as good with the people of Mykonos as Petros, so they replaced him with three pelicans who still roam the streets today. 

Below is a photo-album of our pursuit of Petros:

First we walked up to the top of the city to try and spot him. While we had no luck (unfortunately he blends into the local architecture), we did enjoy this unobstructed lookout point right above a field of power generators.

Next, we looked around the beautiful blue-domed churches. Though he was not around them, they were pretty spectacular. Most of the churches were open to look inside at the Greek Orthodox interiors. 

After a few hours we had to stop for a break. Frozen Greek yogurt with honey seemed like the perfect bait. Unfortunately it didn't last long...

Apparently Petros doesn't hang out next to the famous five windmills. Note to future travelers: the fact that the city has windmills should be a hint that it is VERY windy in Mykonos. Skirts and dresses are an absolute no if you want to walk along the coast at any time. Also - a hair tie would have been a smart thing to bring...

Sweet success! Though Petros is actually a Great White Pelican, we were surprised to find that he is actually light pink! Just as we were told, Petros was very friendly and clearly used to tourists cozying up to him. A perfect Greek gentleman. 

Athens Spotlight: Segway Tour

View of Athens from the Pynx

Segway smooch under the Arch of Hadrian

We were recently tasked with making the most of our seven-hour stop in Athens. Though the Plaka (old town) is small, it was 90° (as it frequently is in the summer), and we were having a hard time deciding between which sights to see after the Acropolis. We wanted to see the ancient ruins: hike up Mars Hill, appreciate the Kerameikos ruins, see the remains of the Temple of Zeus, stand under the Arch of Hadrian, soak up the birthplace of democracy at the Pynx, and even peek into the remains of the first mall in Agora; but also the newer sights: shop in the Monastiraki flea market, have a snack in the main square, check out the Zappeoin (1896 is new in Athenian time).

Believe it or not, we found a way to do all of this with time leftover for some frozen Greek yogurt. How? A segway tour!

Zipping through the
Monastiraki flea market

After some research, we opted for the Athens Segway Tours company. We took the 10:00 am tour and were lucky enough to be the only ones who could make it out of bed early enough. Our own local tour guide (who spoke perfect English) was helpful and flexible. We laid out our priorities and she made sure to hit them. I had never been on a segway before but absolutely loved it. We zipped through the pedestrian areas with no problem, and saw everything we wanted to see plus some sights that were not even on our radar.

The Parthenon on two feet, no wheels (still awesome)

Segways are not (yet) allowed in the Acropolis, so we enjoyed that sans-wheels, but the two hour segway tour was perfect for perusing the large number of important ruins Athens contains in their old town. It was efficient, breezy, and most of all hilarious, and I cannot recommend it highly enough!

Würzburg Weindorf

Bavaria is synonymous with beer... right? That's what I previously thought driving around the state through endless fields of hops and banners for beer fests in every tiny town. This weekend, however, we experienced another, sweeter side to Bavaria: the wine region of Franconia.

Würzburg is the capital of Lower Franconia (the region is split into Lower, Middle, and Upper Franconia), which, though geographically in the German state of Bavaria, is culturally a very different entity. Not only did Franconia not become a part of the state of Bavaria until 1803, but instead of fields of hops taller than a San Francisco town house, the city is covered in beautiful vineyards. Even the back of the train station is one large grape vine grid, just in case you need reassurance that you're in a different neck of the Bavarian woods. Franconia is known for their dry, white wines poured out of short, wide, flat bottles known as Bocksbeutel. But how can you possibly sample a variety wide enough to decide which bottles to buy and carefully stash in your backpack? The answer: The Würzburg Wine Village (Weindorf).

Würzburg Marienkapelle - the backdrop to the event

For two weeks, in the heart of Würzburg, beneath the wooden huts and tasteful tents in the markplatz lie vendors selling over 100 different Franconian wines. Full disclosure: this is not a traditional German fest. Though there were plenty of fest tables and clearly the alcohol was flowing, the Weindorf seemed to have a slightly more subdued atmosphere than the traditional stadtfests. We all tried different types of wine while munching on cheese platters and bratwursts. The Weindorf also stops serving at 11:30 p.m., so the table dancing and stein pounding was notably absent. Regardless, it was a great weekend with great wine.

Whether you have been reluctantly grimacing through beers throughout your stay in Germany, or you are just looking to experience a different aspect of German culture, the Würzburg Weindorf is a great option. For 2014, it runs through June 9th. Reservations are not needed for regular-sized parties - we found a full table with no problem. If you can't make it this year, no need to fret. The Wine Village is in its 28th year, and with over 100,000 visitors each year, it shows no signs of slowing down!

Website for the fest is available here - make sure your browser's translator is turned on)

Best of Amsterdam

Peak tulip weekend. Easter holiday. April 20th. King's Day preparations. Sunny and 65°.

There could not have been a more lively weekend to visit the capital of the Netherlands. Highlights from our weekend of travel perfection below:

Keukenhof Gardens: Though expensive, the tulip gardens were absolutely jaw-droppingly gorgeous. This is a must-see when the tulips are blooming. Even Patrick agreed! We took the too-easy train to the airport then bought the round-trip bus and admission "Combi Ticket." We went closer to closing time and were able to enjoy the park with relatively small crowds. 

 Red Light District: Easter did not seem to stand in the way of the prostitution business over the weekend, but the news suggested that new legislation in Denver and Washington might have hurt the other major trade. Regardless, the streets were packed and we of course enjoyed the people watching.





Bike Tour: There are more bikes in the Netherlands than people, and with bike lanes commonly two-times wider than the pedestrian sidewalks, seeing the city on two wheels is a must. We opted for a City Tour through Mike's Bike Tours. Our guide (Jeff) was informative and hilarious, and our only regret was not planning ahead and getting tickets to the expanded city tour. Book ahead for those! Several people on our tour even took a second trip with Mike's the next day. It was that good.











Fries with Mayo:
A local favorite, Patrick snagged some from a street vendor and didn't look back. Make sure to grab plenty of extra napkins.

Beers with a View: 

We found it hard to move very far down the canals without stopping for a refreshment. Though there are many things to see, pausing and enjoying the moment provided the majority of our weekend highlights!

Anne Frank House: Are you thinking about going to Amsterdam anytime in the next year? Buy your tickets to this sobering but must-see museum today. We made the mistake of not - the lines topped three hours long almost every time we checked (see picture). With a stroke of luck, we checked at 8:10 in the morning and waited behind 25 people until they opened the doors at 8:45, at which point the line behind us was at least two hours long. Best advice: book your tickets online when you plan your trip!

Stuttgart Frühlingsfest

Almost on cue, as soon as the last Oktoberfest tents are dismantled, German winter seems to begin. Though Germans still find excuses the celebrate the season (Glühwein, anyone?), true fest season kicks off again six months later in April with Frühlingsfests, aka Spring Fests.

Dirndl and Lederhosen are recommended

Though cities all over Germany (and other countries in Europe, too) hold their own Frühlingsfests, the crown for the largest Frühlingsfest in Europe belongs to Stuttgart. For three weeks, the capital of the Baden-Württemberg state is inundated with local and visiting patrons of their festival. We were lucky enough to be tipped off to the fun by a good friend and former Stuttgart resident, who helped us plan our time. I was also thrilled to have a friend from London visit for the experience!

Amazed by the
ride selection

Though I hold a special place in my heart for the Texas State Fair, I couldn't help but think that the Stuttgart Frühlingsfest was just like the Texas State Fair, but with more singing, dancing, and beer. They had carnival rides, vendors, all types of foods, Biergartens, and the traditional beer tents one would find at Oktoberfest.
We did not make reservations in a beer tent and, unlike at past festivals we have attended, they wouldn't even let people in the tent without a reservation and corresponding wristband. Plan ahead if your goal is to stand on the garden tables with a liter of beer! We did find a spot at a Biergarten and enjoyed the atmosphere and perfect weather just fine.

Gearing up for
the bumper cars

This festival continues through May 11th. I personally feel as though I am a more well-rounded German resident after attending the Stuttgart Frühlingsfest, and look forward to another round in 2015!

London: Avoiding the Lines

Cheers!

After quite a long travel hiatus, we were delighted to have our first European getaway back together in London! We appreciated English signs, friendly people, and endless sight-seeing options to fill our days. Fortunately, we enjoyed PERFECT weather; however, anyone who is familiar with London knows that with good weather (and also the London Marathon), comes heaps of tourists. We did our best to enjoy London without waiting in a single line. Here is how:








Markets: 
Several of my London colleagues recommended two markets that the locals enjoy perusing on the weekends: Borough Market and Camden Markets. We checked out Borough Market first thing on Saturday morning (it is not open on Sundays). We wandered through the charming food and craft stands, enjoyed a delicious breakfast, and then strolled through the neighborhood. This was Patrick's absolute favorite activity of the weekend.

On Sunday, we ventured to the slightly more touristy Camden Markets. These markets are separated by category - everything from vintage clothing to antiques. They had a seemingly endless selection, but our favorite purchases were from the food stands that lined both sides of the canals. They actually had a macaroni and cheese food stand (!!!!), and it was unbelievable. Patrick enjoyed fish and chips, but was eyeing the Turkish and Mexican stands first. We sat on a canal with our friend Brooks and enjoyed good food, beautiful weather, and excellent people watching. Added bonus: we got to watch how the captains manage the manual locks that line the canals - dorky but cool!

Changing of the Guards - Cavalry Style:
Given it was Marathon weekend, we knew that Buckingham Palace's changing of the guards at 11:00 would be packed. Instead of fighting the crowds, we took the concierge's recommendation and walked a few blocks down the street to the Household Cavalry Museum to see the changing of the horse guards. Yes - there were still crowds, but we arrived just 10 minutes prior and had a front row seat to the action. This ceremony happens each day at 10:50 or 9:50 on Sundays, so if you happen to be in London during the off season, you could even make the Buckingham Palace ceremony afterwards!



Churchill War Rooms:
We headed to the War Rooms on Saturday morning following the changing of the guards. This museum guides you through the bunkers that Churchill and the rest of his government occupied during WWII. The museum is very well laid out and informative. At the end of the Cabinet War Rooms, there is an extensive exhibit on Churchill's life, which was equally fascinating (10 cigars a day!). We are speedy museum patrons and spent almost two hours at the Churchill War Rooms. Get there early though - though we avoided the line, I cannot say the same of our fellow travelers around 1:30, when the line spilled out of the museum and down the block.

River Thames:
We were dying to go on a river cruise, so we stopped by Embankment to check out the options. There were lines 50 people deep at every cruise ticket stand. Instead of waiting for our tickets, we hopped on the Tube for an afternoon visit to Greenwich (see below!) and caught the commuter-focused but delightfully scenic Thames Clipper from Greenwich on our way back. Word to the wise: we were very fortunate to have barely missed the 20,000 person crowd exiting a comedy show at the O2 Arena. If you choose this option, check the O2 schedule before-hand!

Prime Meridian:
Greenwich is a delightful district with the most helpful citizens we have encountered to date. From the Tube station, just a short bus ride away lies the Royal Observatory, which was declared the line of 0° longitude in 1851. The observatory is at the top of a hill surrounded by a beautiful park. We enjoyed the stroll up the hill, and, at the extremely helpful suggestion of our resident friend Brooks, skipped the packed and pricey museum (which gives you access to the photo-op site with a brass line marking the 0° longitude), and snapped some free photos on the portion of the brass line that passes right in front of the museum.
A fun piece of trivia for you: though the rest of the world decided to recognize the prime meridian in their maps at the International Meridian Conference in 1884, France held out and continued to use Paris as the 0° longitude in their maps until 1911.




Overall, we had a fabulous time readjusting to European travelling, and were quite proud of our ability to avoid the crowds. Lesson of our trip was: even on a crowded weekend, there is more than enough to enjoy in beautiful London!