Würzburg Weindorf

Bavaria is synonymous with beer... right? That's what I previously thought driving around the state through endless fields of hops and banners for beer fests in every tiny town. This weekend, however, we experienced another, sweeter side to Bavaria: the wine region of Franconia.

Würzburg is the capital of Lower Franconia (the region is split into Lower, Middle, and Upper Franconia), which, though geographically in the German state of Bavaria, is culturally a very different entity. Not only did Franconia not become a part of the state of Bavaria until 1803, but instead of fields of hops taller than a San Francisco town house, the city is covered in beautiful vineyards. Even the back of the train station is one large grape vine grid, just in case you need reassurance that you're in a different neck of the Bavarian woods. Franconia is known for their dry, white wines poured out of short, wide, flat bottles known as Bocksbeutel. But how can you possibly sample a variety wide enough to decide which bottles to buy and carefully stash in your backpack? The answer: The Würzburg Wine Village (Weindorf).

Würzburg Marienkapelle - the backdrop to the event

For two weeks, in the heart of Würzburg, beneath the wooden huts and tasteful tents in the markplatz lie vendors selling over 100 different Franconian wines. Full disclosure: this is not a traditional German fest. Though there were plenty of fest tables and clearly the alcohol was flowing, the Weindorf seemed to have a slightly more subdued atmosphere than the traditional stadtfests. We all tried different types of wine while munching on cheese platters and bratwursts. The Weindorf also stops serving at 11:30 p.m., so the table dancing and stein pounding was notably absent. Regardless, it was a great weekend with great wine.

Whether you have been reluctantly grimacing through beers throughout your stay in Germany, or you are just looking to experience a different aspect of German culture, the Würzburg Weindorf is a great option. For 2014, it runs through June 9th. Reservations are not needed for regular-sized parties - we found a full table with no problem. If you can't make it this year, no need to fret. The Wine Village is in its 28th year, and with over 100,000 visitors each year, it shows no signs of slowing down!

Website for the fest is available here - make sure your browser's translator is turned on)