Rabat, Morocco

Rabat is my new favorite city.
I knew I wanted to go to Morocco while living in Europe, but I couldn't decide on a city. Marrakesh? Casablanca? Fez? I thought through them all, but at the advice of a Moroccan friend, we decided to take an hour train from Casablanca to Rabat, the capital of Morocco and what seems like an unspoiled cultural gem.

How do I love Rabat? Let me count the ways...

Kasbah of the Udayas

Am I in Santorini? Oh no, the prices are way too good and I'm not stepping around heaps of tourists dropped off by cruise ships. This walled neighborhood dates back to the 11th century. It's easy to get lost in the winding, white-washed and bright blue streets, but for a couple Dirham tip, one of the local "guides" will show you around. There are beautiful palace gardens, but the highlight was a mint tea and coconut macaroon while overlooking the Bouregreg river at Café Maure. The terrace was an oasis, and a great place to get your bearings.

Medina 

We were guided in and out of the Medina for our delicious dinner at Dinarjat

Rabat's medina was dominated by the delightful Souqs (see below), but deserves its own entry. Unlike most medinas in Morocco, I saw very few tourists. Instead, it was bustling with locals purchasing their produce, enjoying a stroll, and stopping into the cafes for a tea or coffee. Even when we veered off into a quiet side-street, we felt safe. We particularly enjoyed peering into the workshops where they were hammering designs into leather slippers and customizing wooden furniture. We returned at night for a lovely traditional Moroccan dinner at Dinarjat. Men dressed in traditional robes and hats guided us around the dark streets to the inconspicuous door to the restaurant. It was quite the experience!

Mint Tea

 OK maybe this one is all over Morocco, but it still deserves a spot on the highlight reel. I didn't think I would like this - green tea with mint leaves and sugar - but now I want to brew my own. It's possible that the sugar content swayed my tastebuds, or maybe it was the way they poured it from silver teapots as high as their arms could reach into the colorful glass cups, but I am a fan. 

Souqs

This is a main part of my obsession. The main market inside the Medina is the perfect blend of a typical bazaar with ornately carved wooden furniture, colorful carpets, brass decor, handmade leather goods, and lacquered wooden boxes, but without the pressure. No one followed us to "show us" where the best stores were, and we didn't even turn into store keeper magnets when we stepped inside stalls to admire the pieces. It was almost American-style hassle but with Moroccan quality pieces. I can't tell you how many desks and doors we thought about shipping back. I settled with a gorgeous  brass mirror that barely fit in my suitcase, and will be pining to return for years.

River Bouregreg

As if the city wasn't picturesque enough, the shore line of the Bouregreg river was peppered with bright blue rowboats waiting to take residents and tourists alike across the water to Salé, Rabat's sister city known for its colorful pottery. We also witnessed a brave, thick-skinned man enjoying the calm waves with a jet ski. Given he wasn't fazed in the least after falling off several times, I would guess the river is unexpectedly somewhat clean.

The sites

Hassan Tower at sundown

A view of the guard from inside
the Mausoleum of Mohammed V

Once again, we were delighted to be surrounded by locals at the city's main tourist attractions: Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Hassan Tower is a gorgeous minaret from the 12th century surrounded by columns from the adjoining mosque that was destroyed in a 1755 earthquake. Today, the site is almost haunting, yet beautiful. Facing the red minaret is the burial site of King Mohammad V and his son, King Hassan II (of the Hassan II Mosque). Guarded 24/7 by fancy-dressed guards, you enter the stark-white building onto an interior balcony, which stretches all around the building and looks onto the tombs of King Mohammad and his two sons. Apparently, there is a man reading the Quran most of the time, however, he was not there when we visited. We visited at sundown, and greatly enjoyed the ensuing photo opportunities.